Two narrow islands link Chioggia to Venice, I’m ferrying between them and biking their length. At some points they are less than twenty meters wide, more a tide break than an island, but people manage to live here.
My favourite part of the day was the first sight of Venice. A cruise liner was being tugged down the grand canal, dwarfing the Venetian buildings. The contrast between the old world and the new was striking.
I reached my ferry terminal and, by the forest of bikes parked on the waterfront, I guessed cycles aren’t allowed on the boats. Thus I must transition from Bikepacking to Backpacking.
So long, Melter, I hope whomever claims you treats you well and services your brakes. Say hi to Wobble and Squeak in the great cycle lane in the sky.
Venice, population 56’000, has been invaded. A hundred thousand pale, boorish people in neon shorts swarm the streets and clog her bridges, swinging selfie sticks around and walking in circles.
(Rant over)
Despite the ‘tourists’, Venice is a very beautiful city. As there are no cars, an army of porters supply her shops with wheelbarrows. One bookshop I visited was so resigned to being flooded they keep their merchandise in bathtubs and boats.
Earlier, I was stranded on the wrong island. I walked into a church and caught the last half of their last hymn. Christian choir music sounds really atmospheric in Latin.
Have you ever been in a bell tower when they suddenly chime the half hour? I have, I hope my hearing will come back soon.
I spent the day boating between the islands of Murano (glassblowing experts), Burano (lace weaving experts) and Torcello (a swampy cathedral). I’m due at the airport tomorrow so this is me saying ‘ciao’.
I think I’ve put weight ON this week, despite all the biking and hiking. Curse you, addictive and delicious gelato shops at every corner.
A Gentleman's World 